BAOTOU
As a friend of mine recently remarked, running a web site about steam in China is akin to writing an obituary column.  Each week seems
to bring news of yet another steam line giving up to the onslaught of the diesels and if I were to remove pages from this site as this
happened then pretty soon there would be nothing left at all.  Also a vital piece of historical record would be lost and for that reason
alone it remains my intention to at least keep the exisitng pages for those who are interested in 'the way things were'.  The page on the
Batou/Dongsheng/Aobaogou area is a particualar favourite of mine as it records my first experiences with mainline Chinese steam.

Baotou is about 600km to the west of Beijing.  When I visited this area in 1998 there was a great deal of steam activity to be seen.  In
addition to the steelworks (which still operates steam in 2007) there were steam hauled suburban trains every morning and evening,
although unfortunately in December these only operated during the hours of darkness.  There was also a branch line to the collery at
Shiguai..... but by far the most interesting line is the one which still runs southward from Baotou to Dongsheng and then on to the coal
mines at Shenmu.  The section from Baotou Dong to Dongsheng was mainly operated by single QJ's but the section to the south of
Dongsheng regularly saw trains containing over 3000 tons of coal. These required double-headed QJ's and in the area around
Aobaogou, which is just to the south of Dongsheng, these trains required further assistance from a QJ acting as a banking engine.  The
sight and sound of these trains as they climbed the last few miles was simply breath-taking and must have been some of the best steam
action in the world at that time.  It is impossible to convey in words the impact that these mighty trains had on a visitor to the area.  The
sheer scale was incredible and the frequency of trains was also surprising.  The cold weather and subsequent steam effects gave
added dramatic impact and certainly the photograph of the two locomotives comming off the viaduct near Aobaogou remains one of the
best I have ever had the pleasure to take.  Although only one shot is illustrated below it forms part of almost a cine film sequence of
shots - so magnificent was the sight that I couldn't keep my finger off the shutter button!
Baotou was really my introduction to steam in China on my first visit in 1998.   We had already spent an afternoon at the Dahuichang
Limestone works in Beijing and a day at Singing Sands (when very little traffic had been evident) but it was Donsheng and Aobaogou
where it really all kicked off.  We had only just arrived when the first coal train came into view in the pre-dawn light and my world has
never really been the same since!  The incredible noise and power, firstly from the leading pair of engines and then from the banker,
took my breath away.  Suddenly those endless hours on the plane and then the long journey by road seemed incredibly worthwhile!
By the late 1990's there were very
few places where steam was still
operated on China National
Railways.  However around Baotou
there was still a suburban steam
service which operated in early
morning and late afternoon.  This
made photography almost
impossible in December but at first
light QJ6248 can just be seen
crossing the thickly frozen Yellow
River with a passenger train
                          
                         31 December 1998
Between Baotou and Dongsheng
the railway runs along an
enormous concrete viaduct at a
point known as Singing Sands.  
This is right on the edges of the
Gobi desert and indeed the wind
appears to make the sand 'sing'.  
Sand ski-ing here is also popular -
complete with chair lifts!

The viaduct carries the railway
along the bed of the river - which
although dry in winter can
become a raging torrent in the
wet season.  We waited here the
best part of a day for the shot -
but in the end patience was
rewarded.
Having spent the night in
Dongsheng we were up before
dawn to get to Aobaogou which is
to the south of Dongsheng.  As
dawn broke we could hear the
approach of a coal train coming
from the direction of Shenmu.  As
it got closer the scale was
staggering - as was the noise made
by the QJ2617 and 6711 at the
front of the train and QJ6248
banking from the rear.  Nothing
had really prepared me for a sight
like this and my breath was
completely taken away.
QJs 1892 and 1611 cross the
curved viaduct to the south of
Aogaogou station with a long train
of empty wagons heading for the
mines at Shenmu.  In the left hand
background can be seen the
chimney of Dongsheng power
station - one of the users of the
coal brought from the mines.
And the trains keep on coming
........ a picture which gives a real
idea as to the length of the coal
trains which operated on this line.  
It was often difficult to find a
location where the three engines
could all be included in a single
picture.  On this occasion QJs6289
and 2586 are in the lead with
QJ3068 bringing up the rear - all
three engines working hard
against the gradient.
A side-on view of the same train
gives a good idea of the amount of
work the engines were doing and
also shows off well the lines of the
QJ class 2-10-2 locomotives.  At
the time it seemed that the QJ
would become the only working
engines in China but in fact they
have been largely outlived by the
JS and SY classes of locomotives
which can still be found at a
number of locations.  However
nowhere do they handle work of
this magnitude.
With its blow down valve fully on
QJ1269 makes a magnificent sight
as it accelerates away from
Aobaogou with the morning
passenger train.  The traditional
green and cream coaches lend
terrific attraction to this scene.
The local track gang take refuge
as yet another monster coal train
heads towards Dongsheng.  This
shot shows the banker, QJ6248,
hard at work providing assistance
to the two train engines.
Our first afternoon was spent to
the north of Aobaogou where the
railway crosses yet another
massive concrete viaduct over a
river.  The weather however
deteriorated but not before we
were able to see QJ3068 returning
light engine on banking duty.
Next morning saw a flying visit to
Dongsheng engine depot before
heading out to the lineside for
another days photography.  Like
most depots the prepation work
and indeed the stabling of the
locomotives takes place outside
despite the freezing temperatures
The first rays of the new morning
sun catch the paintwork and
exhaust of QJ3068 as its made
ready for another day of hard work
as a banking engine.
On this, my first visit to China, I
had joined with five other British
enthusiasts and we had engaged
the services of Li Weshui who had
a reputation for being not only a
first-rate guide but unusually also
as a first rate railway
photographer.  Li knew his
raileway lines well and could
always be relied upon to give good
advice and guidance.  On the
second morning most of the group
were determined to reach a
viaduct about a mile and a half
from Aobaogou station.  Li was
sceptical baout their ability to
reach the viaduct in time and
advised that they should wait
nearer to Aobaogou.  However
they were determined and set off
leaving just Li and myself stood on
the hillside overlooking the curved
viaduct.  It wasn't long before we
heard a train approaching and we
knew the others could not have
reached their destination in time.

All that we could do was to make
the most of a fantastic opportunity
as the train came into sight in the
early morning light on an almost
still day - the smoke hanging
almost motionless in the air.  It was
simply one of the most
breathtaking sights it has ever
been my pleasure to witness and
record.
Since the line was only a single
track, trains had to wait in passing
loops before heading on their
journey.  While we had been
photographing the northbound
train, QJ1891 had been sitting
patiently in the loops at Aogaobou
station.
With the road ahead now clear
QJ1891 gets its long train of
empties on the move after the
enforced wait at Aogaobou.   Since
the line is downhill and the
wagons are empty a single QJ is
quite sufficient - the use of
double-headed QJs on trains of
empties was simply a way of
returning enough engines to
Shenmu to bring back loaded
wagons.
After the previous days poor
weather we were determined to
have a second attmpt to catch a
train crossing the long viaduct to
the north of Aobaogou station.  
Whilst waiting for the next coal
train we were able to watch the
passing of the morning passenger
train - this time in the hands of
QJ6289.
Our patience was finally rewarded!
 The train almost fitted onto the
complete length of the viaduct and
we were able to enjoy QJ6017 and
1611 heading towards us in the
late morning sunshine with
QJ3068 away off in the distance
bringing up the rear of this
incredible train.
With Dongsheng just around the
corner the two leading locomotives
make the final effort to bring their
train up from the mines.  No doubt
the crews were looking forward to
a well deserved rest on arrival!
A chance for one last photograph
at Aobaogou as QJ's 6018 and
6247 speed southwards on a
balanced working,
Our next destination was Benhong
and a chance to catch the
overnight steam hauled sleeper
train to Jing Peng.  To get there
we had to retrace our steps and
were lucky enough to catch
QJ2586 on a train of empty coal
wagons about to enter Singing
Sands Gorge.
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         Click on locations below for more Chinese steam (systems shown in yellow no longer have steam)            
ANSHAN STEELWORKS                                      BAOTOU                                        BEITAI STEELWORKS
BENXI STEELWORKS                                         CHENGDE                                     DAHUICHANG
FUXIN COAL RAILWAY                                        GONCHANGLING                         HANDAN STEELWORKS
HUANAN                                                              JALAINUR                                     JIXI MINING RAILWAYS
JINGPENG                                                             MEIHEKOU                                     PINGDINGSHAN
NANPIAO                                                               TANGSHAN                                    TIEFA  MINING RAILWAY
WEIHE FORESTRY RAILWAY                            XINGYANG BRICKWORKS          XUANHAU STEELWORKS
YUANBAOSHAN